‘Get me out of this godforsaken place.’ Thoughts you have while speeding down the airport expressway that cut’s through Heilongjiang province’s frozen desolation. Harbin could go straight to hell. We were tired of dirty Dongbei with it’s vindictive and relentless winter, with the aroma of coal resting on each nefarious caress of the frigid air…with the taxi driver currently in the process of ripping us off. We were too tired to protest.
We just wanted to be in Hong Kong as soon as possible. Which is weird, having never been there before. It’s a nice notion to leave expectations and preconceived notions about a place at the airport, but sometimes it’s near impossible. As with London and New York, we all have that image of the heaving metropolis that is the pearl of the Orient burned into our collective mind. And, Hong Kong is definitely that. But it’s something else, too.
1. THE METROPOLIS OF HONG KONG
For every square kilometer, there are some 6,340 people crammed into some of the most expensive real estate in the world. Forget Victoria Harbor, Kowloon and Hong Kong Island are their own churning seas of people, lights, and public transport. We decided to stay in luxury on Nathan Road – the main drag in Kowloon – for as long as our wallets could tolerate. But, whether you’re on the peninsula or on Hong Kong Island, it really doesn’t matter. The MTR is phenomenal and put New York and London both to shame.
Hong Kong is kind of likeFor every square kilometer, there are some 6,340 people crammed into some of the most expensive real estate in the world. Forget Victoria Harbor, Kowloon and Hong Kong Island are their own churning seas of people, lights, and public transport. We decided to stay in luxury on Nathan Road – the main drag in Kowloon – for as long as our wallets could tolerate. But, whether you’re on the peninsula or on Hong Kong Island, it really doesn’t matter. The MTR is phenomenal and put New York and London both to shame.
Diet China. You have a cosmopolitan city with every Western amenity you could ask for – Mexican food, size 13 shoes, cleanliness – but wet markets and temples aren’t hard to find. Central is the financial district with some of the most impressive skyscrapers, expensive dining and well-dressed expats. Lan Kwai Fong, also located in Central, is probably the debauchery capital of the city with over 80 restaurants and bars to give the thirsty adventurer his or her best non-memories of HK. If you’re feeling a bit too posh after Central, maybe decide to spend your hangover in one of the many budget hostels at the Chungking Mansions. The rooms are small, the hawkers are annoying, but the Indian food on the ground floor is delicious.
2. THE MOUNTAINS OF HONG KONG
When one descends into Hong Kong, the famous skyline is secondary. Before you see a single skyscraper, you’ll notice from your window that lush mountains are flanking you from either side. The most easily accessible of the these is Victoria Peak, simply called “The Peak” by the locals, and it’s smack dab in the middle of Hong Kong Island. You can take a city bus straight to the top where you’ll be surprised to find a shopping mall. However, there’s also a quiet, tree-shaded path that will give you some of the best panoramas of the city itself. But that’s easy mode.
Serious trekkers will be right at home in the New Territories, the biggest and least talked about region of HK. The New Territories have largely escaped the massive development that Kowloon Peninsula and Hong Kong Island have enjoyed/suffered and it’s amazing how quick you can transition from the city proper to a quiet mountain road. If you’ve packed your gear, then swap city for the jungle on the MacLehose Trail. Stretching over 100km from east to west and divided into ten sections, the trail has steep mountain paths, coastal trails and pretty much anything a nature-lover trying to get out of the city could ask for.
3. THE ISLANDS OF HONG KONG
After hiking in the 30°C heat, there’s nothing better than just sitting on your ass by the sea with a cold beer in hand. Hong Kong has over 260 islands where this is possible, but we decided on Cheung Chau. With a ban on any vehicles other than those used by the municipality, it really is the perfect place to get away from the chaos of the city. After departing the ferry from Central Pier, enjoy some lunch at one of several amazing seafood restaurants down the main drag. You really can’t beat some freshly caught and fried grouper with an ice-cold Blue Girl.
Further down the street is Pak Tai temple – one of the oldest taoist temples in Hong Kong. We mostly have Buddhist temples up in Northern China, so it was a good opportunity to appreciate some different, colorful iconography. After Pak Tai, do an about-face and follow the “Family Trail Walk”. A combination of streets and footpaths, this trail circumnavigates most of the island. It can be strenuous in the heat, but it’s well-marked and will lead you to the other temples on Cheung Chau and, more importantly, some fairly secluded beaches.
THE BEST THING ABOUT HONG KONG
It’s not China. At least, coming from someone who’s been living in a fairly backwater part of the mainland for almost two years now. It’s amazing how such a small place has grown and evolved culturally separate from its mainland counterpart. The pushing and shoving I’ve come to expect every time I get out of my apartment lift would be greeted with death stares here.
But, beyond my cynicism, Hong Kong is many beautiful places at once, each with its own personality. Everyone knows the city, and it’s certainly there in spades, but if you miss the mountains, skip the sleepy island life…did you really see Hong Kong? I don’t think so.
A lot like Hong Kong, KL is one of those cities where nature abounds along with urban sprawls life, all around its peripheries. You can never really see it sticking to just one landscape:
https://youtu.be/p4UeJkGzzu0
